Gardener's Circle Online

All-America Selections announces the first AAS winners for 2012

2011-11-15T14:52:00.004-07:00

All-America Selections (AAS) has announced the first of the newest group of AAS Winners. Following a trial period where these new, never-before-sold varieties are “Tested Nationally and Proven Locally,” AAS judges, have submitted their recommendations and scores from this year's trials. Only those entries with superior garden performance are granted an AAS Award.

With this announcement, these varieties become available for immediate sale. Commercial growers should inquire with their favorite seed supplier. AAS Winner tags are available from several tag suppliers. Consumers will find these seeds for sale in the coming months from mail-order companies and various websites. AAS Winners will also be available as young plants in lawn and garden retail stores next spring.

Salvia ‘Summer Jewel Pink’
AAS Bedding Plant Award Winner
Sister to earlier AAS Winner Salvia ‘Summer Jewel Red,’ this dwarf sized, compact plant has a prolific bloom count throughout the growing season. As a bonus, the blooms appear almost two weeks earlier than the other pink salvias used as comparisons. Commercial growers will appreciate the earliness, excellent pack performance and uniformity. Bred by Takii & Co. Ltd.

Ornamental Pepper ‘Black Olive’
AAS Flower Award Winner
The AAS Judges said this entry was a standout, especially in the Southern gardens where heat was a major presence during the 2011 trials. All season long this beauty kept its upright habit with nicely draping leaves and dark purple/black fruit which appeared in small clusters along the stems. As summer progresses, the fruits mature to red giving a beautiful contrast against the dark purple foliage and bright purple flowers. Retailers and growers can sell this multi-use ornamental as a 20-inch border plant, a great color splash for containers or as a cut flower in mixed bouquets. Bred by Seeds By Design.

Pepper ‘Cayennetta’ F1
AAS Vegetable Award Winner
‘Cayennetta’ is an excellent tasting mildly spicy pepper that is very easy to grow, even for novice gardeners. This 3- to 4-inch chili pepper yielded bigger fruits from a very well branched upright plant. It required no staking, which would make it a perfect plant for container or patio gardens. Unique to this variety is that it has good cold tolerance as well as dense foliage cover to protect the fruits from sun scorch and it handled extreme heat very well. Market growers will benefit from the heavy yield and prolific fruit set from each plant. Everyone will love the excellent pepper flavor that outshone all the comparison varieties. Bred by Floranova Ltd.

Watermelon ‘Faerie’ F1
AAS Vegetable Award Winner
‘Faerie’ is a non-traditional watermelon in that it has a creamy yellow rind with thin stripes yet still yields sweet pink-red flesh with a high sugar content and crisp texture. Home gardeners will like growing something unique in their garden and the fact that the vines are vigorous yet spread only to 11 feet. Each 7- to 8-inch fruit weighs only four to six pounds making it a perfect family-size melon. Professional growers will appreciate the disease and insect tolerance as well as the prolific fruit set that starts early and continues throughout the season. Bred by Known-You Seed Company.

How Trees, Shrubs and Perennials Are Wintered Over in the Nursery

2011-11-07T22:25:00.004-07:00

Ever wonder how nurseries over winter their stock from one year to the next? View the photo album showing how it's done at Circle H Growers.

Click to: View photo album

Gardening Shorts

2011-05-03T17:35:00.000-06:00

U.S. organic industry valued at $29 billion

Organic Trade Association releases its 2011 Organic Industry Survey

Organic Trade Association reports the organic industry grew at a rate of nearly 8% in 2010. The association’s 2011 Organic Industry Survey found the organic industry rose to over $28.6 billion in 2010.

“While total U.S. food sales grew by less than 1% in 2010, the organic food industry grew by 7.7%,” said Christine Bushway, OTA’s CEO and executive director. “Consumers continue to vote with their dollars in favor of the organic choice. These results illustrate the positive contribution organic agriculture and trade make to our economy, and particularly to rural livelihoods.”

In 2010, 40% of surveyed organic companies reported positive full-time employment growth. Companies with fewer than 5 employees were least likely to add full-time employees (23%). About half of the companies with more than 50 employees experienced positive full-time employment growth. This year, 46% of respondents anticipate an increase in employment over 2010 levels. In addition, 50% expect employment to remain even, and only five percent foresee a decrease.

Experiencing the most growth, organic fruits and vegetables, which represent 39.7% of total organic food value. Organic fruits and vegetables, which represent nearly 12% of all U.S. fruit and vegetable sales, reached nearly $10.6 billion in 2010, up 11.8% from 2009.

In the organic non-food sector, organic supplements led with a value of $681 million, representing 7.4% growth over 2009 figures. Organic fiber (linen and clothing) totaled a value of $605 million, achieving 16% year-over-year growth. Personal care products, at $490 million, increased 6.6% from 2009.

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Consumers to spend $1.9 billion on flowers for Mother’s Day

Total spending is expected to reach $16.3 billion

According to National Retail Federation’s 2011 Mother’s Day Consumer Intentions and Actions survey, conducted by BIGresearch, the average person celebrating the holiday expects to spend $140.73 on gifts, up from $126.90 last year. Total spending is expected to reach $16.3 billion.

Nearly two-thirds (64.9%) of consumers will buy mom flowers ($1.9 billion total). More than half (54.7%) of all celebrants will treat mom to a nice dinner or brunch, spending a total of $3.1 billion. One-third (31.8%) of Americans will buy mom clothing or accessories ($1.3 billion total).

When it comes to where consumers will make their purchases, the survey found nearly one-third (32%) of people will shop at a department store, the most in the survey’s history. Others will shop at discounters (29.6%), specialty stores including jewelers, florists and electronics stores (31.8%), online (21.5%) or at a specialty clothing store (7.1%).

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USDA issues proposal to create National Leafy Green Marketing

Voluntary agreement would assist the leafy green industry in meeting food quality and safety requirements

USDA’s Agricultural Marketing Service is requesting comment on the creation of a voluntary National Leafy Green Marketing Agreement that would assist all segments of the leafy green industry in meeting commercial food quality and safety requirements.

To reflect the different climates, production practices and markets handling leafy green produce, USDA is proposing that there be eight regional zones represented on the board. Representatives from these zones, appointed by the Secretary of Agriculture, would form a board to manage the Agreement. The board would include 26 representatives: 12 handlers, 10 farmers (at least two of which must be small farmers), one importer, one retailer, one food service representative and one member of the public.

The Secretary would also appoint a Technical Review Committee to assist the board in the development of technical requirements commonly referred to as Good Agricultural Practices, Good Handling Practices and Good Manufacturing Practices. The committee members will be one producer, one handler and one food safety expert from each of the eight zones. At least one of the eight producers must be a small farmer and one must be a certified organic farmer.

In addition to these 24 members, the Secretary will appoint a representative from the Natural Resources Conservation Service and may also appoint members from other USDA agencies such as the National Organic Program and other federal agencies such as the Food and Drug Administration. All technical requirements developed by the Technical Review Committee for the board would be made available for public comment, be consistent with FDA regulatory requirements and approved by the Secretary prior to implementation.

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Hort Couture plants to be featured at PGA event

The company will be the exclusive annuals provider for The Greenbrier Classic in July 2011

The Greenbrier, billed as “America’s Resort,” has chosen Hort Couture as the exclusive provider of annual flowers for the grounds and the Old White Golf Course that will host the 2011 PGA Greenbrier Classic, July 25-31. This is a FedEX Cup Event that features the top golfers in the world and coverage on The Golf Channel and CBS Sports, with hundreds of thousands of visitors attending the event.

The grounds staff of the West Virginia resort will be planting nearly 200,000 Hort Couture plants on the grounds. The goal of tournament organizers is to create an identity for the event with summer flowers, much like the Masters golf tournament is identified with blooming azaleas.

Hort Couture will be featuring many new, improved genetics in both landscape and mixed containers on the grounds. Among the most prolific varieties planned in the beds are POSH New Guinea impatiens, MANNEQUIN Salvia and SOUTH BEACH Lantana varieties.

Many of the company’s Tres Chic Tropicals will also be incorporated into the plantings to bring bold texture and give the grounds an “over-the-top” exterior look. Colocasia ‘Mojito,’ Pennisetum ‘Fireworks’ and Cordyline ‘Mocha Latte’ will be among the unique plants that will be featured on the grounds.

Landscape architects say more people investing in yards

2011-04-02T20:13:00.003-06:00

'Staycations' helping to lead the charge

It’s a concept that gained traction almost a decade ago, in the wake of 9/11: the ‘staycation,’ the desire of homeowners to cut down on travel and instead invest in their homes. Well, area landscape architects are hearing that word again, but for different reasons, namely a lingering recession and high gas prices. In such times, they say, people are more likely to use their vacation savings on something more permanent. That’s good news for a landscaping industry starting to bloom after a couple of years in the rough.

Gas prices have been on the rise for months, with airline fares following suit. That has plenty of people on edge, from would-be vacationers who might stay home this year to the many tourism-reliant businesses in Western Mass.

But there’s a silver lining for one group — landscape architects, who are increasingly hearing that magic word ‘staycation,’ along with rumblings that homeowners might use their vacation funds this year to create a bit of an oasis at home.

“It’s not just the middle- to lower-income people; I think that applies to everyone,” said Bill St. Clair, president of St. Clair Landscaping and Nursery in Hampden. “Let’s face it, people are watching the dollars they spend, and they’re looking to get the most bang for their buck. And I see more people staying home this year, especially since they’re saying gas could hit $5 by midsummer.”

Stephen Roberts, president of Stephen A. Roberts Landscape Architecture & Construction in Springfield, is hearing the same chatter.

“Staycation is the catchphrase — stay at home and enjoy your house; have people over and entertain without the hassles of traveling. It’s huge,” he said. “We’re really focusing on that — creating a nice environment for people at home.”

The stay-at-home trend rivals what the industry saw in the years immediately following 9/11, St. Clair said, but it’s re-emerging for a different reason, namely lingering anxiety over the economy mingled with pain at the pump. These factors, he and others told BusinessWest, are persuading families to reprioritize their extra dollars, putting them toward something more permanent than a week at a resort or on a cruise.

“In the past two years, our industry has been hit as hard as some other industries,” Roberts said, specifically citing the struggles of general contractors and those involved in moving real estate.

“People aren’t purchasing new homes; they’re staying where they are and investing whatever money they have into their homes, for their personal enjoyment,” he continued. “I see that continuing to happen as long as the housing market isn’t doing much. And I see our industry benefiting from people renovating their homes and fixing them up.”

Survivor rose honors heroes of 9/11

2011-04-02T20:07:00.002-06:00

This new variety was chosen for the "Remember Me" rose garden

Survivor, a new rose from Bailey Nurseries, is the 2011 “Remember Me” Rose Garden selection. The vibrant, scarlet-red blooms and superior performance of this rose honor the men and women who assisted and rescued others at both the World Trade Center and the Pentagon on September 11, 2001.

Survivor is an own root rose with a fresh, fruity fragrance. The scarlet buds open to showcase a vibrant red, hybrid tea shaped bloom that perfectly contrasts with the bright disease resistant foliage.

A donation from the sale of each rose will be made to the “Remember Me” Rose Garden, a nonprofit organization dedicated to creating three gardens, one each in New York City, Washington, D.C., and Pennsylvania, to honor the memory and spirit of each man, woman and child who lost their lives on September 11, 2001.

“Bailey Nurseries is honored to be part of this unique project,” said Pat Bailey, Bailey Nurseries vice president of sales and marketing. “We hope that Survivor serves as living memorial to the brave men and women who became heroes on 9/11.”

Rosa ‘Survivor'

Hardiness Zone: 5-9

Height: 3-4 feet

Flower Form, Size: Full, 3 inches

Petal Count: 30

Echinacea 'Secret Series'

2011-03-26T10:52:00.009-06:00

Some of the hottest-selling coneflowers on the market today have double flowers. The plants of the Secret™ series all produce large double blooms on strong plants with a sturdy, medium habit. The color doesn't fade and the flower show can last till frost! The flowers make great cuts too!

•	Compact, multi-branched habit, means more flowers per plant
•	Double, anemone like flowers have super long lasting color
•	The "Secret" is... these are some of the best. We were never good at keeping secrets!
•	An exquisite cut flower, are real sensation that is easy to grow

Echinacea Secret Desire
Part of the Secret™ Series of mid-size plants with double ‘Coral Reef’ type flowers. 'Secret Desire' has very large multicolored flowers of pink and orange. Grows vigorously and forms a full plant quickly.
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Echinacea Secret Joy
Arising like comets in the summer garden, 'Secret Joy' features pale yellow, double flowers that are a delight to the senses. These fragrant gems make excellent cut flowers. Use en masse for the border or in a mixed bed.

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Echinacea Secret Lust
You will lust after this one. It has "Razzmatazz"-like double flowers with red orange disc flowers and contrasting light pink rays. These double flowers bloom and bloom and bloom all summer and fall. A well-branched compact habit top of the picture and you are hooked. Fool proof and sun proof!
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Echinacea Secret Passion
You, too, will feel passionate about this Echinacea. It has bright, flamingo pink double cones and contrasting lighter pink ray florets. In addition, ‘Secret Passion’ blooms and blooms and blooms all summer and fall. It has a well branched, compact habit. You can use 'Secret Passion' en masse for the border, in a mixed bed, and as a cut flower.

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Echinacea Secret Pride
Charming, double white flowers are kissed with butter at their petal-tips. Fragrant flowers stand out against the dark-green foliage.

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Echinacea Secret Romance
You will be delighted and amazed with the wonderful and very large, salmon pink 'Coral Reef' style double flowers. In addition 'Secret Romance' has a lovely, well-branched compact habit. You will want to romance this one. Bouquets of cut flowers from just one plant!

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Heuchera Vienna

2011-03-22T10:21:00.002-06:00

Heuchera 'Vienna' is amazing in its color, habit, and blooming. With veiled leaves orange to rose orange, a compact dense habit, and reblooming rose pink flowers in short wands you are bound to be impressed. Use in the front of the border, for accent, or in containers. One of our City™ Series which bloom and bloom and bloom.

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Zone: 4-9 Zone Map
Foliage Height: 7 Inches
Width: 15 Inches
Flowering Height: 16 Inches
Plant Habit: Mounding
Exposure: Sun/Part Sun
Water: Moderate
Landscape Uses: Mass planting, Accent Plant, Rock Garden, Edging, Borders, Containers
Comments: Compared to 'Peach Flambé', 'Vienna' has leaves that are more angular and veiled. The leaves are more orange and hold the color through the summer. The flowers are rose pink and more showy.
Blooms: Spring/Summer/Fall

Click to view available Heuchera varieties

Heuchera Root Beer

2011-03-22T10:17:00.001-06:00

Lovely root beer colored foliage combined with creamy yellow flowers. 'Root Beer' forms a mound of color year round and is sure to charm you with its spring bloom. The third in the "soda series" which includes 'Ginger Ale' and 'Cherry Cola'.

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Zone: 4-9 Zone Map
Foliage Height: 6 Inches
Width: 14 Inches
Flowering Height: 18 Inches
Plant Habit: Mounding
Exposure: Sun/Part Sun
Water: Moderate
Landscape Uses: Mass planting, Accent Plant, Rock Garden, Edging, Borders, Containers
Comments: It's a sibling of 'Cherry Cola' with red brown foliage with creamy yellow flowers and a compact habit.
Blooms: Spring

Click to view available Heuchera varieties

Heuchera Pear Crisp

2011-03-22T10:14:00.001-06:00

Tightly ruffled yellow foliage makes a cute mound.

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Zone: 4-9 Zone Map
Foliage Height: 8 Inches
Width: 17 Inches
Flowering Height: 14 Inches
Plant Habit: Mounding
Exposure: Sun
Water: Moderate
Landscape Uses: Mass planting, Accent Plant, Rock Garden, Edging, Borders, Containers
Comments: It is tighter and more ruffled than any others, with leaves in amber and peach shades. It forms a low tight mound.
Blooms: Spring

Click to view available Heuchera varieties

Heuchera Peach Crisp

2011-03-22T10:10:00.001-06:00

The second in the Crisp™ Series, 'Peach Crisp' is a visual marvel. With an extremely ruffled peach to amber leaf color, and a tight mounding habit, it works well in a container, as an edger, or a textural color spot. Prefers full sun and good drainage.

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Zone: 4-9 Zone Map
Foliage Height: 6 Inches
Width: 14 Inches
Flowering Height: 15 Inches
Plant Habit: Mounding
Exposure: Sun
Water: Moderate
Landscape Uses: Mass planting, Accent Plant, Rock Garden, Edging, Borders, Containers
Comments: It's tighter and more ruffled than any others, with leaves in amber and peach shades. It forms a low tight mound.
Blooms: Spring

Click to view available Heuchera Varieties

Heuchera Ginger Peach

2011-03-22T10:07:00.002-06:00

Similar to ‘Marmalade’ with rose rather than orange tones and a bigger habit. A great low maintenance landscape plant that doesn't flower until the second year. Fills containers fast! A big clumping habit and wonderful ruffled leaves. Showy in all seasons, this vigorous plant has heavy substance standing up to inclement weather.

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Zone: 4-9 Zone Map
Foliage Height: 10 Inches
Width: 24 Inches
Flowering Height: 18 Inches
Plant Habit: Mounding
Exposure: Sun/Part Sun
Water: Moderate
Landscape Uses: Mass planting, Accent Plant, Rock Garden, Edging, Borders, Containers
Comments: It's a large scale ruffled landscape plant similar to 'Marmalade' with rose rather than orange tones.
Blooms: Spring

Click to view available Heuchera varieties

Heuchera Ginger Ale

2011-03-22T10:03:00.002-06:00

Effervescent flowers in shades of ginger yellow and light pink erupt from soft, ginger colored leaves. Lovely to contrast with the darker coral-bells in the marketplace. Designers love the ability of this plant to complement so many colors. It is a perfect neutral tone. Good in containers and in borders.

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Zone: 4-9 Zone Map
Foliage Height: 9 Inches
Width: 10 Inche
s Flowering Height: 18 Inches
Plant Habit: Mounding
Exposure: Part Sun/Shade
Water: Moderate
Landscape Uses: Mass planting, Accent Plant, Rock Garden, Edging, Borders, Containers
Comments: Compared to 'Amber Waves', it is more vigorous, with showy ginger flowers, and ginger colored foliage with a white veil.
Blooms: Spring

Click to view available Heuchera varieties

Heuchera Cherry Cola

2011-03-22T10:00:00.002-06:00

Front of the border charm with lovely red brown leaves and rust-cherry red flowers. 'Cherry Cola' performs all year round. Something fizzy for the garden. One of three in our “Soda” series with ‘Root Beer’ and ‘Ginger Ale’.

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Zone: 4-9 Zone Map
Foliage Height: 6 Inches
Width: 14 Inches
Flowering Height: 18 Inches
Plant Habit: Mounding
Exposure: Sun/Part Sun
Water: Moderate
Landscape Uses: Mass planting, Accent Plant, Rock Garden, Edging, Borders, Containers
Comments: It forms a medium size mound with rust red leaves and flowers. It is lovely in bloom in spring. It is better flowering and has a different leaf color than 'Cinnabar Silver'. It holds extremely well over the winter.
Blooms: Spring

Click to view available Heuchera varieties

Heuchera Berry Marmalade

2011-03-22T09:56:00.003-06:00

Large landscape grape-purple-black Heuchera with very thick leathery leaves. A very rapid grower. 'Berry Marmalade' is a large and bold plant with ruffled, deep purple-black leaves and a silvery veil. Extra thick leaves stand up to intense heat and cold. Very shy to bloom means no cleaning for several years usually. A very bold plant, very quick growing, filling a container fast!

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Zone: 4-9 Zone Map
Foliage Height: 12 Inches
Width: 28 Inches
Flowering Height: 18 Inches
Plant Habit: Mounding
Exposure: Sun/Part Sun
Water: Moderate
Landscape Uses: Mass planting, Accent Plant, Rock Garden, Edging, Borders, Containers
Comments: It has a rapid growth rate, is very shy flowering, and has near perfect winter foliage. It has an excellent large landscape habit. Holds its color and shape in summer better.
Blooms: Spring

Click to view available Heuchera varieties

Heuchera Apple Crisp

2011-03-22T09:50:00.003-06:00

New in the 'Crisp Series', Apple Crisp' is blessed with seriously crisped green leaves and a white veil. The combination of a tight, compact habit and short white flowers make our 'Apple Crisp' the "tastiest" you've ever had!

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Zone: 4-9 Zone Map
Foliage Height: 6 Inches
Width: 11 Inches
Flowering Height: 11 Inches
Plant Habit: Mounding
Exposure: Part Sun/Shade
Water: Moderate
Landscape Uses: Mass planting, Accent Plant, Rock Garden, Edging, Borders, Containers
Comments: Very ruffled green with white veil, short white flowers. Compared to 'Ruffles' it is more ruffled with much shorter white flowers, and a tighter habit.
Blooms: Spring

Click to view available Heuchera varieties

Consider size and timing when planting trees

2011-03-19T11:46:00.000-06:00

I am planning to buy and plant several trees this spring. What advice can you give me about choosing and planting them?

First of all buy from a reputable nursery. Buy locally. Not only will you have some recourse if the tree dies within its first year, but also the tree will be adapted to your particular climate.

Second, think about how big the tree will be when it is mature. Lay out the measurements on the ground before you dig the hole. Many a healthy tree has been cut down after 1-2 years because it was too close to a building, driveway or other structure.

Third, consider the root system. The roots of any tree will spread far wider than the leaf canopy. Ask yourself whether the roots could eventually cause problems to other plants or to your infrastructure - such as water, sewer lines or septic tanks and drain fields. Willows and poplars are notorious for root systems which seek out water. The shallow root systems of maples are infamous because they hog the water in their area. It is difficult to grow any small plants including lawn grass, under a maple.

If you choose to purchase bare root trees, buy your trees early this spring before they begin to leaf out. Bare root, dormant trees will grow much faster than ones in a container. Don't worry about size. Small trees will catch up with big ones bought at the same time within a couple of years.

As soon as you get your bare root trees home, put their roots in a bucket of water. Leave them to soak until you plant them. Try to get them in the ground the same day they were purchased. Dig the holes only as deep as the root ball but much wider. A hole approximately three times the necessary width is the current recommendation. A square hole is supposed to encourage roots to grow outward rather than circling. Look for the root flare. Plant it at ground level or even an inch above the ground, never deeper. If there are any roots starting above the root flair, cut them off. Otherwise, prune off only broken roots or branches. Put in the tree and fill the hole halfway with soil.

Add nothing to stimulate the tree's growth. It needs to be content with the soil in the area where it lives. Giving it pocket of good soil may convince roots not to grow out of that pocket. Firm in the soil, then pour in water to fill in the hole. When the water has drained, fill the rest of the hole with dirt. Repeat the firming and watering.

It's not necessary to stake a tree, but do cover the root area with two or three inches of mulch..

Heucherella Yellowstone Falls

2011-03-08T09:50:00.000-07:00

The second in the trailing Heucherella series, 'Yellowstone Falls’ has lovely chartreuse lobed leaves with deep crimson markings. The stems will trail 3 feet in a container making a wonderful hanging basket or a super ground cover.

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Zone: 4-9 Zone Map
Foliage Height: 6 Inches
Width: 24 Inches Flowering Height: 10 Inches
Exposure: Sun/Part Shade
Moisture: Moderate
Landscape Uses: Groundcover, mixed beds, border, container, hanging basket
Comments: The first trailing Heucherella. This has chartreuse to lime leaves that are marked with deep crimson.
Bloom: White
Blooms: Spring

Click to view available Heucherella

Heucherella Sweet Tea

2011-03-08T09:47:00.000-07:00

Like the first Heucherella villosa hybrid called ‘Alabama Sunrise’, this Heucherella shares the same villosa bloodlines. This is so important, especially for those in climates with hot, humid summers, because the plants hold up tremendously under such weather.

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Zone: 4-9 Zone Map Foliage Height: 20 Inches
Width: 28 Inches Flowering Height: 27 Inches
Exposure: Part Shade/Shade
Moisture: Moderate
Landscape Uses: Edging, Container, Mass, Evergreen, Foliage, Specimen, Border, Groundcover
Comments: 'Sweet Tea' has amazing red orange spring and fall color and cut leaves. The foliage darkens in the summer and winter.
Bloom: Pink/White shades
Blooms: Spring/Summer

Click to view available Heucherella

Heucherella Solar Power

2011-03-08T09:43:00.000-07:00

Deep red splattered leaves of yellow gold to lime green and lobed from a spreading mound of color in sun or part shade. This Heucherella takes higher light levels than other yellow foliage forms. This is the one Heucherella that'll stun with its sun tolerance. When grown in full shade it stays lime green with splatters of deep red. Its cascading habit makes it perfect for mixed beds, borders, or cascading from a container.

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Zone: 4-9 Zone Map Foliage Height: 12 Inches
Width: 20 Inches Flowering Height: 16 Inches
Exposure: Sun/Part Shade
Moisture: Moderate
Landscape Uses: Edging, Container, Mass, Evergreen, Foliage, Specimen, Border, Groundcover
Comments: 'Solar Power' has deep red splatter markings on its gold leaves. Takes full sun without burning.
Bloom: White shades
Blooms: Spring/Summer

Click to view available Heucherella

Heucherella Redstone Falls

2011-03-08T09:38:00.001-07:00

The first GROUNDCOVER Heucherella, sending out 12”+ stems and spreading low. Broad coppery-colored leaves with dark veins in the spring and summer and changing to a multitude of reds and browns in fall and winter. Good spilling out of a container in sun or shade or use in your mixed beds. H. villosa bloodlines enhance the usability in many regions. Vigorous grower.

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Zone: 4-9 Zone Map Foliage Height: 10 Inches
Width: 36 Inches Flowering Height: 15 Inches
Exposure: Sun/Part Shade
Moisture: Moderate
Landscape Uses: Groundcover, mixed beds, border, container
Comments: It is a wonderful colorful groundcover that is showy all seasons.
Bloom: White
Blooms: Spring

Click to view available Heucherella

Heucherella Brass Lantern

2011-03-08T09:35:00.002-07:00

Outstanding vigor combined with brassy gold and red spring color on maple shaped leaves. A beacon in the garden. Has spikes of white flowers on dark stems. Winter color is olive and brown. Use this large, evergreen, landscape perennial in mixed beds, under high branching shrubs, or in a container. Best color contrast with some shade.

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Zone: 4-9 Zone Map Foliage Height: 12 Inches
Width: 24 Inches Flowering Height: 28 Inches
Exposure: Sun/Part Shade
Moisture: Moderate
Landscape Uses: Edging, Container, Mass, Evergreen, Foliage, Specimen, Border, Groundcover
Comments: This is a large landscape type Heucherella with brassy spring color and red brown summer color.
Bloom: White shades
Blooms: Spring/Summer

Click to view available Heucherella

Heucherella Berry Fizz

2011-03-08T09:32:00.002-07:00

Who put the fizzy pink spray on Heucherella 'Burnished Bronze'? Something a bit different from the Heucherella kings at Terra Nova Nurseries. Great in sun or shade, containers, or borders. Light pink-white flowers.

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Zone: 4-9 Zone Map Foliage Height: 6 Inches
Width: 12 Inches Flowering Height: 10 Inches
Exposure: Sun/Part Shade
Moisture: Moderate
Landscape Uses: Edging, Container, Mass, Evergreen, Foliage, Specimen, Border, Groundcover
Comments: This is a variegated form of Heucherella 'Burnished Bronze'.
Bloom: Pink/White shades
Blooms: Spring/Summer

Click to see available Heucherella

Echinacea 'Magnus Superior' Coneflower

2011-03-06T09:51:00.003-07:00

Echinacea Magnus Superior Coneflower

It’s hard to believe that one of the most popular perennials in the world, Echinacea p. ‘Magnus’, is celebrating its 25^th birthday this year! In celebration of the plant’s silver anniversary, Jelitto is introducing a new and improved version which they have named ‘Magnus Superior’.

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Zone: 3-9 Zone Map
Width: 18 Inches
Height: 40 Inches
Plant Habit: Clumping, Upright
Growth Rate: Moderate
Exposure: Full Sun/Part Sun
Water: Average
Landscape Uses: Border, Cut, Dry, Butterfly, Bird, Naturalizing, Deer Resistant
Bloom: Pink Shades
Blooms: Summer/Fall

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Echinacea 'Little Annie' Coneflower

2011-03-06T09:44:00.001-07:00

Echinacea Little Annie Coneflower

This darling little seedling of ‘Kim’s Knee High’ is the most dwarf, compact Echinacea to date, reaching only 10-12 inches tall in full bloom at maturity. It was discovered among a stand of ‘Kim’s Knee High’ by Eric Stahlheber of Southernwood Gardens in Jonesboro, IL.

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Zone: 3-9 Zone Map Height: 10-12 Inches
Width: 8-12 Inches
Plant Habit: Clumping, Upright Growth Rate: Moderate
Exposure: Full Sun/Part Sun
Water: Average Landscape Uses: Border, Cut, Dry, Butterfly, Bird, Naturalizing, Deer Resistant
Bloom: Lavender Pink
Blooms: Summer

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Echinacea 'Irresistible' Coneflower

2011-03-06T09:37:00.001-07:00

Echinacea Irresistible Coneflower

With colors like rainbow sherbet, these fragrant, 3½” blossoms first emerge pastel yellow with a large copper cone, then quickly develop into double, coral pink flowers with a slightly deeper pink pom-pom on top. As the flowers mature, the center of the pom-pom gradually lightens to citron yellow and the ray petals lighten to peachy pink. It’s a kaleidoscope of delicious colors that are sure to add a unique element to fresh flower bouquets.

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Zone: 4-9 Zone Map
Foliage Height: 14 Inches
Width: 30 Inches
Flowering Height: 32 Inches
Plant Habit: Clumping, Upright
Growth Rate: Moderate
Exposure: Full Sun/Part Sun
Water: Average
Landscape Uses: Border, Cut, Dry, Butterfly, Bird, Naturalizing, Deer Resistant
Bloom: Peach to Pink Shades
Blooms: Summer/Fall

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Echinacea 'Daydream' Coneflower

2011-03-06T09:30:00.002-07:00

Echinacea Daydream Coneflower

Part of the Dream™ Series for the landscape. 'Daydream' is a midsize plant with fabulous yellow to soft yellow flowers that bloom all summer long. Use en masse for the border, in a mixed bed, and as a cut flower. The sweet fragrance is just right for a lazy summer afternoon.

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Zone: 4-9 Zone Map
Foliage Height: 15 Inches
Width: 22 Inches
Flowering Height: 26 Inches
Plant Habit: Clumping, Upright
Growth Rate: Fast
Exposure: Full Sun/Part Sun
Water: Average
Landscape Uses: Border, Cut, Dry, Butterfly, Bird, Naturalizing, Deer Resistant
Bloom: Yellow
Blooms: Summer/Fall

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Echinacea 'Cranberry Cupcake' Coneflower

2011-03-06T09:24:00.004-07:00

Echinacea Cranberry Cupcake Coneflower

Large, double, cranberry colored, 'Razzmatazz'-like flowers on a "cupcake" of a plant. 'Cranberry Cupcake' is short and wide and makes the perfect size garden plant. It is very free flowering.

For more info or to order

Zone: 4-9 Zone Map
Foliage Height: 14 Inches
Width: 22 Inches
Flowering Height: 22 Inches
Plant Habit: Clumping, Upright
Growth Rate: Moderate
Exposure: Full Sun/Part Sun
Water: Average
Landscape Uses: Border, Cut, Dry, Butterfly, Bird, Naturalizing, Deer Resistant
Bloom: Cranberry Red
Blooms: Summer

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Echinacea 'Aloha' Coneflower

2011-03-06T09:18:00.004-07:00

Echinacea Aloha Coneflower

Wide, melon yellow petals surround orange cones on this all summer to frost bloomer. A very welcoming and elegant plant that greets you with its fragrance and beauty.

For more Info or to order

Zone: 4-9 Zone Map
Foliage Height: 22 Inches
Width: 28 Inches
Flowering Height: 32 Inches
Plant Habit: Clumping, Upright
Growth Rate: Moderate
Exposure: Full Sun/Part Sun
Water: Average
Landscape Uses: Border, Cut, Dry, Butterfly, Bird, Naturalizing, Deer Resistant
Bloom: Light Yellow
Blooms: Summer

View other available coneflowers

The Essential, Edible Eggplant - This Versatile Veggie Tastes as Good as it Looks!

2011-02-26T20:03:00.002-07:00

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Eggplant is a versatile vegetable that's an essential ingredient in dishes from around the world! It's naturally low in calories, fat, and sodium, yet high in fiber and loads of other vitamins and nutrients, and it comes in a number of varieties that are just as beautiful as they are tasty! There is a wide selection sure to provide something for everyone. If you're not already a fan of the excellent, edible Eggplant, you soon will be!

Choosing A Variety
When choosing which Eggplant to grow, you have a lovely variety of colors, shapes, and sizes to pick from! The basic types are globe-shaped, elongated and cylindrical, and egg-shaped, with the possible colors for the fruit including white, purple, rose, green, black, yellow, orange, or red, and solid or striped. The most common type found in North America is the Western or oval eggplant. Its large deep purple fruit is used for stuffing, baking, sautéing, and grilling.

When To Start
Eggplants are best started inside approximately 6 weeks before the last frost or about 8 weeks before you expect the outside temperatures to remain above 60°F at night. They can be sown outdoors only in climates with very long growing seasons, when the soil is warm and all danger of frost is past.

How To Start
You can start with seed starting pot-packs, pots, or a good seed starting mix to sow your eggplant seeds. And you have several options, depending on how many eggplants you want to grow.

Click here to view how seeds are started at Circle H Growers

Place your pots or flats in a 70-75°F room, or you can use a seedling heat mat to raise the temperature. You should see the first sprouts in about 10 to 15 days and fruit should appear in 45 to 90 days from sowing, depending on the variety. As soon as your sprouts are up, place the seedlings under strong light.

If you're using a potting mix, plant at a depth of 4 times the size of the seed (below a ¼ inch of soil). You can use Jiffy Pots and Strips - Jiffy Pots are constructed of lightweight, biodegradable peat moss, so as the roots develop, they will grow right through the Jiffy Pot walls and into the garden soil.

Using fluorescent light for around 14 to 16 hours a day is also ideal for the fastest growth. You will want to keep the seedlings just a few inches below the light so they don't "stretch" and get "leggy". If you don't have strong artificial light, a sunny window will work, too.

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Planting Out
About 2 weeks before your transplant date work the garden soil thoroughly. Eggplants like a rich, fertile soil with plenty of organic matter so add compost or manure before planting. You can also work in a time-released fertilizer, which can be reapplied every 4 to 6 weeks. Then cover the soil with a tarp or plastic mulch to keep the weeds from sprouting until you're ready to plant. The use of mulch or a pop-up cold frame will also warm the soil, an important step before planting your young Eggplants.

Three to five days before transplanting, you'll need to start "hardening off" your young plants by setting them outdoors in a lightly shaded area for an hour or two. The next day, give them a longer visit outside until they remain outdoors overnight, still in their pots. Naturally, if a cold spell hits, bring them indoors again to wait for the temperature to rise.

Your plants are ready to be transplanted when they have at least two sets of true leaves. Plant them 1 ½ to 2 feet apart in rows that are 2 ½ to 3 feet apart. Site them in full sun in well-drained soil, where they will receive 6 to 8 hours of direct sunlight each day. Water well and mulch to conserve moisture. If you're growing the plants in straight rows, plastic mulch is far easier and effective than loose mulch.

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Special Considerations
Eggplants dislike root disturbance, so transplant carefully.

Eggplants are very sensitive to extreme cold, so after you've planted your seedlings, if there's a chance of a really cold or frosty night, securely cover them with a plastic bucket, plastic bag, or row cover.

Unless you have no other choice, don't plant your Eggplants in the same place you planted Tomatoes, Eggplants, or Peppers the year before. These veggies all belong to the same plant family and therefore have similar nutritional needs and are susceptible to similar diseases. Their presence can deplete the soil of important nutrients and possibly leave remnants of diseases in leaf litter the following year.

Some varieties of Eggplants have spines, so be careful when harvesting the fruit.

Growing Tips
   * Use a row cover to reduce insect damage.
   * Encourage the presence of ladybugs, lacewings, and other beneficial insects in your garden. These "good" insects prey on aphids and other destructive insects.
   * Use cages or supports to keep fruit-laden plants from falling over.
   * The mature size of each plant will determine how much space you need to provide. For standard-size varieties, allow 18 to 24 inches between plants. Smaller types can be placed closer together, perhaps 12 to 18 inches apart.
   * In order to remain productive, Eggplants need about 1 inch of water per week. A 1- to 2-inch layer of mulch will help retain moisture as well as offer weed control.
   * If the nights become cool once your Eggplants have been planted in the garden, you can protect them with row covers or a tarp. Be careful, however, not to lay the tarp directly on the plants. You will need to use blocks, sticks, or whatever you have available to form a tent over your tender young Eggplants. You can remove it during the day and replace it at night, or leave it in place for several days and nights without damage to the plants.
   * Growing Eggplants in containers adds beauty to decks and patios as well as offers a solution if you have limited gardening space or if you simply want delicious veggies within easy reach. You can grow dwarf varieties in an 8-inch pot or a deep window box. Larger Eggplants will need a 12-inch pot or 5-gallon container to allow for root development. Only use containers with drainage for excess water, and choose a potting mix designed for container gardening. Water as needed, especially during the heat of summer and as fruit begins to form on the plants.
   * Harvest fruits regularly to keep the plants producing. Don't pull them off, but rather cut them off cleanly - pulling the fruit off may damage the stems. If a stem does get broken, use a knife or cutter to remove it cleanly. Eggplant fruit is best used fresh but will keep for about a week if it's loosely wrapped in a perforated plastic bag and stored in your refrigerator's crisper or a cool pantry.

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Pests And Problems To Watch For
   * Flea beetles, so named for their tendency to jump when disturbed, love Eggplants. They produce a characteristic injury to leaves known as "shot-holing." Young plants and seedlings are particularly susceptible to this damage. You can use Sevin Dust or organic Neem oil to control them.
   * Aphids are often found on the underside of leaves and on stems and young buds. You can wash them off with a strong stream of water or use an insecticidal soap (be sure to follow the label instructions). Check the plants regularly, as aphids can be a recurring problem.
   * Mites are extremely small and often not noticed until the damage has been done. A fine webbing on the underside of the leaves may indicate their presence. They thrive under hot, dry conditions, injuring the plants by sucking out the juices, which causes the leaves to discolor and yellow. Mites can be controlled by washing the plants with water every day for about a week or by applying an insecticidal soap to the underside and top of the leaves.
   * Verticillium wilt can affect Eggplants, Tomatoes, Peppers, and Potatoes. A soil-borne fungus that makes the plants wilt, turn yellow, and eventually die causes this disease. Rotating these plants to different areas of the garden every year can prevent this problem.

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Garden Geek
The Nightshade Family - Friend or Foe?
Did you know that the Petunia and the Eggplant are cousins? Incredible as it seems, both are members of the Solanaceae, or Nightshade, family. And if the word "Nightshade" makes you think "Deadly," you're right - many members of this family are highly toxic. Yet others, such as Eggplant, Tomato, and Pepper are deliciously edible!

If you look closely, all of the Nightshades really do look similar. Their flowers are funnel-shaped and 5 petals, usually connected. The leaves are hairy or clammy. And the fruit is either a berry (such as the tomato) or a capsule that breaks open when dry, releasing round, flat, tiny seeds.

So from fragrant Flowering Tobacco to delectable Paprika, the Nightshades bring us beauty and spice. They aren't all deadly, and several are among our most popular garden vegetables!

Garden Weed: Hairy bittercress

2011-02-22T11:30:00.000-07:00

Cardamine hirsuta

Other Names: Small Bittercress, Common Bittercress, Hoary Bittercress, Popping Cress, Pennsylvania Bittercress, Jumping Jesus, Flick Weed

IDENTIFICATION — Strolling through your garden in early spring, you spot a small, bright green mound, usually less than 6 in. tall. It’s up, and sometimes even flowering, with the daffodils. You’ve just discovered hairy bittercress, an annual weed that’s found throughout much of the United States and into Canada.

The leaves are small and rounded. Tiny white, four-petaled flowers bloom in early spring. However, in a cool, moist spot, you may find flowers blooming at any time of the year. Seed pods are narrow spikes that point straight up. When they’re dry, they spring open to eject the seeds.

FAVORITE CONDITIONS — Often hairy bittercress comes into a garden with new plants from a greenhouse or nursery, where it’s a common pest. It’ll grow just fine in sun or shade, moist or dry soil, and given time, will spread around your flowerbeds and vegetable gardens.

CONTROL — In moist soil you’ll find hairy bittercress has a taproot, but in dry conditions the roots tend to be more branched. Either way it’s easy to pull. Or if you cut it off with a hoe it won’t resprout. There’s really no need to use a herbicide unless you’re dealing with a very large stand of this pest.

Enjoy Healthier, Tastier Tomatoes

2011-02-19T12:19:00.002-07:00

Tomato Heirloom Rainbow Blend
Click on Picture to Order Seeds

Choosing A Variety:
The variety of tomato you decide to grow depends on where you live. If your growing season is short, as it is in the far north, you will want to choose an early variety to ensure yourself the best harvest. Early season tomatoes ripen quickly, typically being ready to pick within 4 months of sowing the seeds.

If you live in the deep south or another warm-climate area with humid summer nights, you'll want to grow varieties that are heat tolerant and resistant to blossom drop. Whatever your location, you'll need to grow your plants where they can receive at least 6 hours of full sunlight a day.

You will also need to consider when you want to harvest - all at once or gradually over the season. If you enjoy canning the fruit, a determinate variety is your best choice. These plants grow as a 3- to 4-foot-tall bush and set all their fruit within a few weeks. If you want to enjoy your tomatoes throughout the season, choose an indeterminate variety, which grows as a vine and needs staking. And for a little of both, consider the new semi-determinate varieties. These plants stay small enough to grow in containers, yet keep bearing all season long!

When To Start:
Tomatoes are best started indoors. This needs to be done 5 to 7 weeks before the last anticipated frost date. The seedlings can then be transplanted into your garden anywhere from 2 to 4 weeks after the last actual frost date. You can check with your County Extension Office to get frost information for your area.

How To Start:
You can start with seed starting pot-packs, pots, or a good seed starting mix to sow your tomato seeds. And you have several options, depending on how many tomatoes you want to grow.

Click here to view how seeds are started at Circle H Growers

Place your pots or flats in a 70-75°F room, or you can use a seedling heat mat to raise the temperature. You should see the first sprouts in 3 to 8 days. As soon as your sprouts are up, place the seedlings under strong light.

If you're using a potting mix, sow at a depth of 4 times the size of the seed. You can also use Jiffy Pots and Strips - Jiffy Pots are constructed entirely of lightweight, sturdy peat moss, so as the roots develop, they eventually grow right through the Jiffy Pot wall and into the garden soil!

Provide good lighting - for around 14 to 16 hours a day. You can use florescent lighting which is ideal for fastest growth. Keep your seedlings just a few inches below the light so they don't "stretch" and get "leggy." If you don't have strong artificial light, a sunny window will work, too.

Tomato, Burpee's Burger Hybrid
Click on Picture to Order Seeds

Planting Out:
About 2 weeks before your transplant date, work the garden soil thoroughly, adding generous amounts of compost and about 4 pounds of fertilizer (5-10-10 is ideal) for every 100 square feet. Then cover the soil with a tarp or plastic mulch to keep the weeds from sprouting until you're ready to plant.

About ten days before transplanting, you'll need to start "hardening off" your young plants by setting them outdoors in a lightly shaded area for an hour or two. The next day, give them a longer visit outside until they remain outdoors overnight, still in their pots. Naturally, if a cold spell hits, bring them indoors again to wait for the temperature to rise.

When planting, bury the stem almost up to the lowest set of leaves, even if this means covering up several extra inches. If your plants have a long, tall, spindly stem with leaves widely spaced, you can plant them horizontally in the ground right up to the first set of leaves - the plant will root all along its stem. Just dig a long trench a few inches below the soil, lay the plant carefully into it as if you're burying it, and then gently angle the stem upwards, so that the only part showing is the very top, with at least 4 to 6 leaves aboveground. Strip the underground leaves off the plant and cover up the entire length of "leggy" stem. Be careful not to bend the stem so sharply that it breaks - bank it with soil and pat the earth down firmly around it.

As soon as your Tomatoes are in the ground, mulch heavily around the plants to keep weeds down and moisture in the soil. If you're growing the plants in straight rows, plastic mulch is far easier and effective than loose mulch (such as straw or pine bark).

The amount of space you need to keep between Tomato plants depends on the type you're growing:
Determinate and compact indeterminate - 2 feet apart
Indeterminate grown on stakes - 18 inches apart
Indeterminate grown in cages - 3 feet apart
Container varieties - 2-gallon pot or larger

Tomato, Orange Wellington
Click on Picture to Order Seeds

Special Considerations:
If you can keep from doing so, don't plant your tomatoes where peppers, eggplants, or Tomatoes were planted the previous year. These veggies all belong to the same plant family and therefore have similar nutritional needs and are susceptible to similar diseases. Their presence one year can deplete soil of important nutrients and possibly leave remnants of diseases in leaf litter.

Do not over-fertilize your tomatoes, as this can make the plants less likely to flower. Your best bet is to use a formulation created specifically for tomatoes.

Growing Tips:
   * Prepare your soil in the fall. Lay in a foot or more of bio-degradable mulch - chopped-up leaves, grass clippings, pine bark, decayed vegetable compost, humus, and even newspaper all break down into the soil over time. This feeds the soil just what it likes so that when you approach it with a tiller or shovel in spring, it just needs to be turned over and mixed up a bit. Then top off the whole rich pile with a piece of plastic to keep the mulch "cooking" as long as possible into winter and to prevent all the good nutrients from running off in hard rains.

   * If frost still threatens after you plant your tomatoes, or if you live in a short-season climate where late frosts are just part of spring, there are ways to keep your tomatoes going. One way is to place a tarp over the plants, weighing it down at the edges to keep it from blowing away. Be careful, however, not to lay the tarp or plastic directly on the plants. You will need to use blocks, sticks, or whatever you have available to form a tent over your tender young tomatoes. You can uncover it during the day and re-cover it at night, or leave it in place for several days and nights without damage to the plants. However, be careful not to cook your plants if you leave it on too long during sunny days - some air flow is important to prevent this.

   * Once the fruit sets, be sure to keep the plants evenly watered until they're nearly ripe. The rule of thumb is an inch and a half a week, but if you begin the season watering more heavily, keep up the same rate. Just before the fruit ripens, taper off a bit. This will make the flavor meatier and less watery.

   * Pick your tomatoes when they are full, red, and firm. Eat them fresh off the vine or store them at about 60°F. If you find yourself frantically picking the last several dozen while they're still green (to avoid an early autumn frost, for example), wrap them loosely in newspaper or a brown paper bag and store them in a cool, dark, dry place. Or count your blessings and fry them up at once!

Tomato, Early Girl Hybrid
Click on Picture to Order Seeds

Pests And Problems To Watch For:
Nematodes live in the soil and destroy tomato plants from the roots. You can use chemicals to control these pests, but the easiest and most beautiful way to kill them is to plant marigolds along with your tomatoes. This lovely annual naturally eliminates these destructive parasites.

Cutworms are caterpillars that chew through the stems of tomato plants. They can be conquered by putting a Cutworm Shield around each plant at transplant time, or you can make your own from coffee cans, plastic drink bottles with both ends cut out, or cardboard paper towel and toilet paper rolls. Sink the shield at least an inch beneath the soil as well as several inches above it.

Pests or diseases can cause holes or spots on your leaves. The most likely pest culprit is the hornworm, which you can hand pick off your plants and dispose of as you see fit.

Blossom drop occurs when you have lots of flowers but no fruit. Anything from high humidity to unseasonable cold could cause this to happen. The plants must be pollinated to set fruit - you can help get the pollen up and moving by shaking the plant to loosen it up a bit.

If your tomatoes have a mark or dark scar at one end, that's Blossom-end Rot, and it's probably caused by a calcium deficiency or a sudden change in temperature during fruit set. All you need to do is cut off the affected part and enjoy the rest of the tomato. If it's marked all over, that's called Cat-facing, and it's probably a result of transplanting too early, insufficient water, or unusually high temperatures. Again, just cut away the scarred area.

Fruit or Vegetable?
The definitions of "fruit" and "vegetable" are as numerous as the people writing them, but generally speaking, a fruit is the fleshy seed-bearing part of a flowering plant. By this definition, Tomato is a fruit, as are Squashes, Eggplants, and Cucumbers.

The trouble comes in when we stop thinking botanically and start thinking practically. In cooking, Tomatoes, Squash, and Cucumbers are considered vegetables, because they aren't as sweet as we expect "fruit" to be. Legally, according to an 1893 U.S. Supreme Court declaration, Tomato is classified as a vegetable because that is how it is used in cooking. (The legal case arose based on differing tariffs applied to fruits and vegetables.)

Perhaps Arkansas solved the problem best by declaring the Tomato to be both its state fruit and its state vegetable!

Building A Better Tomato

2011-02-15T18:12:00.000-07:00

USDA Economic Research Service estimates that 20% of tomatoes are lost to spoilage. USDA-Agricultural Research Service and Purdue Univ. scientists are looking to create a better tasting and more nutritious tomato that lasts longer.

Researchers are working to manipulate the amount of nitrogen-based organic compounds called polyamines that play a role in the tomato plant’s growth, flowering, fruit development, ripening and other functions. Polyamines have also been associated with the production of lycopene and other nutrients that are beneficial against certain cancers and other diseases.

By introducing a yeast gene into tomato plants, the scientists were able to increase the production of the polyamine spermadine, which resulted in more vegetative growth and extended the fruit shelf life. Fruit shriveling was also delayed by up to 3 weeks and there was a slower rate of decay caused by disease. The fruit were found to have higher levels of lycopene. Results of the research are in The Plant Journal.

Pictured: USDA-Agricultural Research Service plant physiologist Autar Mattoo (center) discusses the improved features of a genetically-modified tomato line to postdoctoral fellow Vijaya Shukla (left) and biological technician Joseph Sherren.
Photo by Steve Ausmus

The Garden Consumer, Version 2011

2011-02-15T17:09:00.000-07:00

Pick A Peck of Peppers!

2011-02-13T11:58:00.007-07:00

From sweet to spicy to downright sizzling, there's a perfect Pepper for everyone! Whether you're wanting a fresh and colorful garnish for your salads or you need to spice up those Mexican and Oriental dishes or you're simply looking for a tasty and nutritious snack food, Peppers are happy to provide. Keep reading and learn just what you need to know to grow the biggest and most delicious harvest of Peppers you've ever had! And if you've never attempted to grow these versatile veggies before, now is the time!

Choosing a variety:

When deciding what type of Peppers you want to grow, you will need to consider size, flavor, and color. In the category of sweet or salad Peppers, your choices include bell and pimento as well as some banana and cherry varieties. If heat is what you want, you can grow Habañero, Jalapeño, Anaheim, or Hungarian Peppers. Sweet and hot Peppers come in a rainbow of beautiful colors — green, yellow, red, orange, and even purple. So not only are they delicious, they make great eye-candy!

When to start:

It's best to start your Peppers inside about 8 weeks before the last frost and at a temperature of 75-80 degrees F. They can be sown outdoors in early summer when the soil remains above 65 degrees F, but indoor germination is recommended.

How to start:

What makes peppers hot?
The heat comes from a chemical compound called capsaicin. It is the pepper plant's best defense against mammals who would eat its foliage.

Capsaicin is created in the white pith of the chili pepper (not in the seeds, as many people think), and it works by stimulating nerve endings in the skin, especially the mucous membranes. Birds are not affected by the heat, which makes them perfect for dispersing the seed in the wild. They swallow pepper seeds without destroying them, and disperse the seeds later, wherever they happen to be — which means that pepper seeds can often "travel" great distances from their parent plants!

Beginning with seed starting pot-packs this is a great way to sow your Pepper seeds. And you have several options, depending on how many Peppers you want to grow. From 18-cell trays - which grows big, stocky seedlings ready to transplant right into your garden - to 72-cell trays for those who have longer growing seasons and just want to get a jump start with their peppers.

If you're using a potting mix, plant at a depth of 4 times the size of the seed (below a ¼ inch of soil). You can also use Jiffy Pots and Strips — Jiffy Pots are constructed of lightweight, biodegradable peat moss, so as the roots develop, they will grow right through the Jiffy Pot walls and into the garden soil.

If the room where you have your seeds isn't at least 70 degrees F, you can use a seedling heat mat to raise the temperature. As the first leaves appear, however, lower the temperature a bit, to 70-75 degrees F.

Fluorescent light for around 14 to 16 hours a day is also ideal for the fastest growth. You will want to keep the seedlings just a few inches below the light so they don't "stretch" and get "leggy". If you don't have strong artificial light, a sunny window will work, too.

Germination should occur in 10-15 days and fruit should appear in 50-80 days from sowing, depending on the variety.

Planting out:

About 2 weeks before your transplant date work the garden soil thoroughly, adding compost and fertilizer (use a 1-2-2 ratio fertilizer, before planting and again after 6 weeks). Then cover the soil with a tarp or plastic mulch to keep the weeds from sprouting until you're ready to plant. The use of mulch or a pop-up cold frame will also warm the soil, an important step before planting your young Peppers.

About ten days before transplanting, you'll need to start "hardening off" your young plants by setting them outdoors in a lightly shaded area for an hour or two. The next day, give them a longer visit outside until they remain outdoors overnight, still in their pots. Naturally, if a cold spell hits, bring them indoors again to wait for the temperature to rise.

Your plants are ready to be transplanted when they've developed their third set of true leaves. Plant them out 2-3 weeks after the last frost, placing them 1 foot apart in rows that are 30-36 inches apart — Pepper plants do well close together. Site them in full sun in a rich, well-drained soil. Water well and mulch to conserve moisture. If you're growing the plants in straight rows, plastic mulch is far easier and effective than loose mulch (such as straw or pine bark).

Many varieties of pepper can be grown in containers! Be sure not to set them out until several weeks after last scheduled frost, and protect them by moving the container to a frost-free location if cold weather is anticipated. Mulch them in well, and provide support if needed. Many peppers are quite ornamental, and make splendid additions to the patio, porch, or balcony.

Special considerations:

Seeds germinate faster at temperatures above 80 degrees F, although fruit set benefits from the cooler nights of late summer.

Peppers are very sensitive to extreme cold, so after you've planted your seedlings, if there's a chance of a really cold or frosty night, securely cover them with a plastic bucket or plastic bag.

Unless you have no other choice, don't plant your Peppers in the same place you planted Tomatoes, Eggplant, or Peppers the year before. These veggies all belong to the same plant family and therefore have similar nutritional needs and are susceptible to similar diseases. Their presence can deplete the soil of important nutrients and possibly leave remnants of diseases in leaf litter the following year. Of course, if you aren't sure what kind of soil you've got, you can always analyze it with a soil test kit.

Growing tips:

Prepare your soil in the fall. Lay in a foot or more of bio-degradable mulch — chopped-up leaves, grass clippings, pine bark, decayed vegetable compost, humus, and even newspaper all break down into the soil over time. This feeds the soil just what it likes so that when you approach it with a tiller or shovel in spring, it just needs to be turned over and mixed up a bit. Then top off the whole rich pile with a piece of plastic to keep the mulch "cooking" as long as possible into winter and to prevent all the good nutrients from running off in hard rains.
If frost still threatens after you plant your Peppers, or if you live in a short-season climate where late frosts are just part of spring, there are ways to keep your Peppers going. One way is to place a tarp over the plants, weighting it down at the edges to keep it from blowing away. Be careful, however, not to lay the tarp or plastic directly on the plants. You will need to use blocks, sticks, or whatever you have available to form a tent over your tender young Peppers. You can uncover it during the day and re-cover it at night, or leave it in place for several days and nights without damage to the plants. However, be aware that as the days get longer and warmer, if you're not careful in removing the tarp or plastic soon enough on sunny days, you risk sunburning or cooking your plants if they don't receive sufficient airflow.
Once your seedlings are in the ground, be sure they get sufficient water — Pepper plants are quite thirsty in early growth. Also, make sure the soil is well drained to help prevent root rot. The soil's pH level should ideally be around 6.5 to begin with, then increased or decreased afterwards to determine the chosen flavor (more acidic soil will produce a sharper, hotter taste).
Onions and peas are good companion plants for your Peppers. Onions repel pests like aphids, while peas fix nitrogen, and similar to Peppers, like slightly cool conditions and close quarters. Although appreciative of warm temperatures during the day, both peas and Peppers set fruit better if they can get some relief from the heat during the evenings.
If necessary, stake plants. Especially when they are loaded with fruit.
Pick your Peppers as soon as they're big enough to eat, or you can leave them on the plants to change color and flavor gradually. Don't pull them off, but rather cut them off cleanly — Pepper plants are fragile and pulling the fruit off may damage the stems. If a stem does get broken, use a knife or cutter to remove it cleanly. Otherwise, no pruning is necessary.
Be careful not to over-fertilize — too much nitrogen will result in a great-looking bushy, green plant, but very little fruit.

Pests and problems to watch for:

The most common pests you'll find on your Peppers are spider mites and aphids, with an occasional borer. You can get rid of them with the use of an organic insecticide or dust. Onions will also help repel aphids.

As far as diseases go, Peppers tend to be susceptible to the same problems as Tomatoes. They can also get fungal infections, which can be treated with a fungicide. Treat your plants as soon as you see a problem.

High temperatures and low humidity can cause Pepper plants to lose their blossoms. In turn, cool weather can keep them from flowering. Deep cultivation can also cause blossoms to drop, as it can induce water stress if feeder roots are cut.

Landscape Designers and Why To Use One

2011-01-30T18:37:00.000-07:00

Landscape Designers and Why To Use One

Echinacea ‘Southern Belle’

2011-01-17T21:28:00.004-07:00

Echinacea Southern Belle
Photo courtesy Plants Nouveau

A new Echinacea variety has recently been introduced by Plants Nouveau.

The NEW charmer is known as Southern Belle. This is the latest addition to the popular line of the Cone-fections series and the breeding of Arie Blom of AB-Cultivars in The Netherlands.

This new double-frilled flowering Echinacea looks fantastic, is a true magenta color and you'd think the images were altered. But from what I've been told, they're not. They look that good.

This is the first in the series with the long-lived Echinacea teisnneseens and has a long blooming period.

The blooms resemble a fancy party skirt and last for weeks before fading to a softer pink. The blooming period may very well be the longest of any hybrid introduced.

Plant Specifications

Zone: (4)5-9 Zone Map

Width: 30-36 Inches

Height: 30-36 Inches

Plant Habit: Clumping, Upright

Exposure: Full Sun/Part Sun

Water: Average

Landscape Uses: Border, Cut, Dry, Butterfly, Bird, Naturalizing, Deer Resistant

Bloom: Magenta

Blooms: Summer/Fall

NEW Ornamental Corn for 2011

2011-01-15T14:10:00.000-07:00

Just ran into this cool-looking ornamental corn while going through the current issue of Greenhouse Grower, so I have to share. Hopefully I'll be able to pick this up this season as I can certainly use it in some of my container plantings around the greenhouse for a completely enticing look.

Ornamental Corn ‘Field of Dreams’. This new introduction produces variegated green and white with touches of rose, ‘Field of Dreams’ adds color and structure to large combination pots and accents in the
landscape. Plants can reach four to five feet tall and produce ears that are as attractive after the season as the plants were beautiful during the season.

CHG Updated Website

2010-12-18T10:31:00.000-07:00

I've spent the last several weeks rebuilding and updating the main Circle H Growers website. It's basically done and uploaded. To see how it looks: Click here

There's new content on the home page with some of the new perennial plants that will be available for 2011, garden articles, the Circle H Growers Facebook feed, and a garden video area which will be changed out from time to time - hopefully weekly. The current video talks about indoor flowering winter plants - Christmas cactus, Amaryllis and Cyclamen. Although these aren't CHG produced videos, I hope you'll find them to be timely and of interest for all gardeners and plant lovers.

As for online perennial plant products, CHG has decided to focus on a select group of perennials at this time. Instead of the whole plethora of perennial plants CHG offers, CHG is sticking to Echinacea's, Heuchera's and Heucherella's. These seem to be the best online sellers and it'll be easier to manage. CHG will, however, continue to offer plenty of other perennial plants at the nursery for customers to purchase.

Please let me know what you think of the updated website and check back often for garden articles and garden related videos.

Pantone Announces Color Of The Year

2010-12-12T10:58:00.000-07:00

The Pantone Color Institute announced this morning the Color Of The Year for 2011 is honeysuckle. This color, which they describe as courageous, confident and vital is predicted to be the new "it" color for fashion and home accessories.

Pantone's Colors Of The Year are often incorporated into everything from home furnishings and interior designs to landscapes and runway fashions.

This year's color is Pantone 18-2120 honeysuckle.

Here's what Leatrice Eisman, executive director of the Pantone Color Institute has to say about honeysuckle: “In times of stress, we need something to lift our spirits. Honeysuckle is a captivating, stimulating color that gets the adrenaline going – perfect to ward off the blues. Honeysuckle derives its positive qualities from a powerful bond to its mother color red, the most physical, viscerally alive hue in the spectrum.”

Read more about it here, and comment below to let us know how you'll be incorporating the Color Of The Year in your garden center.

New Heucherellas For 2010

2010-02-28T20:57:00.003-07:00

Here are the new Heucherellas for 2010 from Terra Nova Nurseries:

Heucherella - Brass Lantern